![]() Power locks, decklid relase solenoid, power seats Integrated module, voltmeter, speed control, remote keyless entry module, anti-theft, power window and lock switch illumination, radio, power antenna, clock Speed control module, ABS module, brake shift interlock, high mount brake lamp, stop lamps, flasherĬluster (gauges), cluster (ABS), cluster (air bags), chime, autolamp sensor ![]() Clip a set of vice grips on it and it'll be enough weight to hold the wire steady while you solder, on your knees, leaning into the car, under the steering wheel, in the floor board.Cluster, defroster switch, coolant level sensor, washer level sensor, DRL module, EVO test, EVO steering sensor, ARC (EVO) module, ARC switch, EATC blend door, air bag module, overdrive cancel switch, brake shift solenoidĬluster illumination, rear defrost switch illumination, A/C switch-maunal illuminastion, PRND21 illumination, ashtray light, EATC illumination, clock illumination, radio illumination I improvised a little jig for holding wires while soldering in the car. All splices and terminations were crimped, soldered and shrink tubed. I then started clipping the wires from the original block and plugged them back into the headlight switch in their associated terminals. I wired up the new fuse panel and relay so that the original accessory circuits were now fed by the new switched circuits. The switched source to the accessory fuses on the original fuse block became the trigger for the relay to power the 2nd bank of circuits in the new fuse panel as switched 12v circuits. Then the 2nd constant hot circuit became the source for the relay. The main 12Ga feed to the headlight switch became the source for the new fuse panel and the 1st constant hot circuit fed back to the headlight switch in it's place. I removed the headlight switch/fuse block and starting clipping wires, one at a time and adding them to the circuitry. I used a relay and the first constant hot circuit to power the relay. Top 6 slots are for constant hot, bottom 6 for switched hot. To begin with, I sourced a 12 circuit fuse block with 2 input leads. Pull that sucker out from under a dashboard and main wiring harness just to replace a fuse! ![]() In the photo I've already pulled the fuses but you can see the holders where they go. Altogether the switch/panel is about 2" tall and almost 6" long. The block sticks out past the switch and holds 3 fuses for the switched hot accessories. The fuse block installs into the headlight switch from the top and is held on my metal clips. To start with, here's a couple of photos of the headlight switch and associated fuse block. There was no way I was going through that crap again so I decided I needed to modify the headlight switch/fuse panel configuration and relocate the fuse panel to the kick panel for future troubleshooting and repair. I laid on my back under the steering and 30 mins later crawled out, scratched and sore. I used a fuse tap in the main 12v to the switch for the radio memory. There is already a female spade terminal built into the fuse block for the switched hot radio circuit but nothing for a constant hot. What hair-brained engineer would do something like that! I installed an aftermarket stereo in my Fairlane and had to remove the headlight switch to wire in the radio memory and switched hot. That means, if you blow a fuse, you either have to pull the headlight switch or lay on your back under the steering wheel to replace a fuse. ![]() To start with, for those not familiar, the fuse block on the Fairlanes from this generation is physically mounted to the back of the headlight switch. Specific to this car but some of you may find it useful on bumps too. Thought I'd post this modification I just finished to the fuse panel on my '64 Fairlane.
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